These will probably be the last babies available this year (I might have a few Juniors available in the fall).
There are three 94% German Hybrid Does available (an opal, a chocolate and a blue):
Two 94% German Hybrid bucks available (a black and a chestnut):
and two 97% German Hybrid bucks (a white buck and a black buck with a white spot on his chin):
This is what I love about the German Angoras – not only do I get nice soft wool to spin, I get lots of it! I just spun these two skeins of 100% Angora wool from the wool from the last shearing of my Blue German Hybrid buck. One shearing gave me 480 yards of fingering weight yarn, easily enough to knit a beautiful scarf, and I will get the same amount every 90 days, Now the only hard choice I have to make is which scarf to knit!
The January kits have been weaned and are ready to go to their new homes! I have bunnies from three litters available – a 94% German litter ($100 each), a 92.5% litter ($100 each) and a 72% litter ($80 each). I have mostly chestnut and black available with a few white and opal and one little blue.
Remember this guy?
He has really grown!
Here are some of his siblings (94% German bunnies):
Remember these ones?
Here are some of the 72% bunnies now:
If you are interested in any of these contact me via email@example.com
I regularly travel to Cookeville, TN so pickup can be arranged anywhere between there Huntsville, AL.
They are growing quick! Remember what they looked like a week ago:
It is amazing how much they grow in such a short time. They are finally starting to look like rabbits.
Even at this age you should be evaluating your kits. This kit has a white foot which is a fault. While he will not be suitable for breeding, he can still be a nice wooler for someone.
The kits are growing and becoming more active. It took about two dozen pictures to get this one because the kits were in constant motion. There are one or two kits in each litter who are not getting fed as often as they should. This number is unusually high. I believe it is related to the constant below freezing temperatures. Water in these temperatures begins freezing instantly. Despite offering fresh water several times a day to the does, I think that not having water constantly available is affecting their milk production. To help catch the smallest kits up, I combined them (marking them to make sure they returned to the correct litter) and offered them to the doe who was producing the most milk. She immediately fed them and I returned them to their litters. This requires more effort but hopefully the extra feeding will strengthen them and prevent any losses.
These persistent freezing temperatures are abnormal for this area. Unfortunately you cannot predict extreme weather conditions a month ahead of time, but you need to be aware of the risks, and be willing to take steps to mitigate them. I stop breeding in April because the heat can kill the pregnant does, and the young kits. Here, the heat is more likely to kill than the cold so I prefer to risk the cold. If these weather conditions occur more often, I would either choose not to breed this time of year, or adjust my rabbitry to better accommodate breeding at these temperatures.
By now the does are getting comfortable with their role as mothers. Their milk should be coming in full force by now. You can feed them a supplement to support their milk needs - I use Calf Manna or Milk Pro (follow the instructions for lactating rabbits – they only need a small amount). I also start filling their feeders so they can eat their fill. Any extra weight now will not hurt the does - the kits milk requirements will increase exponentially and it will be hard to keep the does from losing weight. You need to watch for over-feeding now.
This kit has been overfed. You can see its bulging belly – if you turn it over the skin is so tight it looks like it will pop. Overfeeding can kill the kits. I see this problem most often in litters were the mother had a large number of kits and her milk was not initially sufficient for the numbers so the kits either died or needed to be fostered out. When the mothers milk does come in, it seems to come in sufficient quantities to support the original litter size. You can return some of her fostered kits or add some from another litter (remember to chose kits of similar size). You also can remove the nestbox to restrict the number of feedings. The mother’s milk production will adjust to the reduced demand after a couple of days.
It is day 4 and everyone is growing well. You should check the nestboxes daily – kits can get into all kinds of trouble. You need to count the kits to make sure that none of the kits has wandered into some corner of the box and gotten stuck. You also need to check to make sure that strings of wool have not wrapped around any body part – kits have died or had legs amputated when the wool matts into strings and becomes a tourniquet or noose.
When you check your kits you might find that your previously sweet doe starts charging you, maybe even trying to bite. This is her protective instincts kicking in. It is a good sign – this means her hormones levels are high. A mother who is protective is producing milk and caring for her kits. This is the only time aggression is acceptable for an angora rabbit, but don’t worry – your sweet doe will return after the litter is weaned and her hormones return to normal. In the meantime, to lower the does stress levels and prevent being bitten you need to either remove the doe or the nestbox from the cage when you check the babies. I find that the does are calmer when you remove the nestbox.
I use drop nestboxes (the does are less likely to have kits or the wire and any kits that accidently get out can crawl back in). I used to line my boxes with cardboard and throw away the liner after each litter but there was a number of problems with it – I could not remove the nestbox, the does did not like the cardboard and would constantly toss it out of the box, and it did not provide insulation. The final straw was when I lost an entire litter when the doe dug to the bottom of the box and had her litter on the wire at the bottom. This started my quest for the perfect system – it had to be useable with my drop boxes, reusable (and sterilizable), and provide both drainage and insulation.
This year I am using these plastic wash bins with slight modifications. I drilled many holes at the bottom to allow drainage. The lip of the basin is larger than the opening of my drop nestboxes but smaller than the wire box itself which allows me to fill in the gaps at the bottom and sides with hay – even if the doe has her litter at the bottom or against a side, the kits still have an inch of hay between them and the outside which gives me time to find them and move them to a better spot. They are easily removable and will be able to be sterilized. So far they are working out well. My only concern is that babies that get out of the nestbox might not figure out how to get over the half inch lip. I’ll have to watch and see.
By day three the kits are growing fast – they are double the size of when they were born. They have started “popping” when disturbed. They leap up as high as they can try to get to their mothers teat first. They are still blind so they react to the influx of air as if to their mother. It is highly competitive in the nestbox at this age. The mother only feeds them once or twice a day for a few minutes so they have to eat fast or lose a meal.
The kit on the left missed out during the last feeding. 24 hours ago he was the same size as the kit on the right but without food he will not grow. Since he is now weaker than the rest of his littermates he will have even less chance of nursing at the next mealtime. If this litter was born to a wild rabbit he would likely die – only the strongest kits can beat the competition for a teat. Since he was born in a rabbitry, I can intervene. I have had very limited luck with using bottles – I have not yet found a nipple that the babies can easily latch on to. Maybe one in ten will nurse from the bottle and that one will not remember how at its next feeding. I have had a lot more success fostering kits out to another mother. This kit needs a meal soon or it will die so I am placing it with a mother who is probably going to feed her kits soon to give it another chance to eat. It is hard to tell in the picture but the white kit is significantly larger than the rest of the littermates and is obviously getting more than his fair share of the milk. It is better to match kits by size to ensure a fair competition. I am going to foster him out to a litter of similarly robust kits to give his littermates a fighting chance. If I did not have a litter to move him to the best strategy would be remove him so he misses a feeding which will allow the other kits to catch up. It might sound counter-intuitive but if he stays, he will continue to out compete his littermates and the smallest will start dying while he become huge. (Update – the blue kit did get his meal and was returned to his original litter where he now has a fighting chance).
I brought the nestboxes inside overnight since temperatures are expected to drop into single digits. It might be hard to see but the kits are starting to grow fur – the sheen you are seeing is their equivalent of a five o’clock shadow. Full bellies let me know their mom is doing her job. It is rare to actually see a doe nurse. Rabbits only nurse once or twice a day and it only takes a couple of minutes. This chestnut kit has a nice plump belly.
Here in the south we are experiencing unseasonably cold spells. Most of our rabbitries are not designed for temperatures below freezing since our biggest climate troubles usually come during the heat of summer. A healthy angora rabbit can easily handle freezing temperatures as long as it is sheltered from the wind (rabbits sheared recently will require additional protection). Tarps make a good temporary wind break as long as they are attached to a sturdy frame. I like to use tarps around cages because I can control the airflow – tarps are rolled down during cold or rainy days and rolled up in the heat of the summer to allow a cooling breeze. If your rabbit has a nice spot to get out of the wind then the next most important thing is to keep water available. In these temperatures water can freeze in less then an hour. You need to provide fresh water several times a day. Provide warm water if possible to encourage them to drink more. If they do not drink enough, their digestive system will not work properly and they are more likely to get wool block. Watch any rabbit in full coat carefully for wool block in the weeks following a cold snap.